By Janet Casselden
These fantastic jackets came into the collection from Cole Park before 1978 and were probably worn in the late 18th century by a member of the Lovell family.
They are items I have shown during the textile study days I have been able to hold since our purchase and refurbishment of the old Moravian Church.
As the photos show they are garments with a fair amount of ‘bling’ which shines when either sunlight or artificial light catches. When the pocket flaps are lifted the fabric of one and the embroidery of the second glows even without extra light! This section of both garments shows very little sign of wear as there are no actual pockets.
One is made of a heavy corded turquoise silk, predominantly lined with, what is now, quite a grubby silk. It was made for what I would term a rather portly gentleman, any of our manikins would need a cushion tied to their front to display the splendid gold metal embroidery and buttons.
They would have been worn with knee breeches, with a sleeveless waistcoat and shirt underneath. Unfortunately we do not have these items, but we do have another similar sized jacket with breeches and a heavy outer coat to match made from a woven and patterned silk in brown and cream.
Every item of clothing from this period would have been made by hand. When a group of stitchers is able to get up close and has finished being amazed by the skill of the embroiderers and how well it has survived 200+ years, they want to look closely at the construction and the stitching. This too is amazing and does not disappoint; neat tiny stitches, and not a simple shape. The sleeves are made with a bend already in them – so the wearer would not have been able to hold his arms straight, and with all the metal and heavy silk they are not lightweight garments! On the turquoise jacket – is a lighter piece of fabric in both shoulder areas which allow movement, otherwise I think it would have been a most uncomfortable garment to wear.
The embroidery on both jackets looks beautifully stitched, the colours of the silks used are still strong, it is only the metal threads which have tarnished with time. The designs are probably typical of the time and really deserve further study. A project for the future!T
